Skin Purging - Cleansing Bootcamp for the Skin

Author: Nina Ebert, M.Sc. Biology

Switching from conventional facial care to natural cosmetics rich in active ingredients, including plant-based ingredients or vitamins, doesn't always immediately result in a radiant complexion and the desired natural glow. Often, the exact opposite occurs, and the switch to effective active ingredient skincare initially results in irritation, redness, and pimples. Don't worry: this is a completely natural reaction, skin purging, and involves a deep, thorough cleansing of the deeper layers of the skin. Skin purging is nothing more than a thorough spring cleaning, triggered by detoxifying molecules.

Skin Purging - Detox and rapid cell renewal

The English term "purge" goes far beyond cleansing. It's a thorough cleansing and purging, like a thorough, vigorous flushing down to the last corner. "Skin purging is a detox process triggered by an active ingredient that increases the rate of skin cell renewal," explains Dr. Deanne Mraz Robinson, a renowned dermatologist at the Modern Dermatology Institute in Connecticut. The skin's natural renewal cycle lasts 28 days. During this time, a new skin cell is formed in the hypodermis (the deepest layer of the skin) and makes its way to the epidermis, the visible surface skin.

How do initial worsening symptoms occur?

This renewal process can be accelerated, for example, through face brushing or skincare with active ingredients. Active molecules boost the detoxification function and turnover rate of cell renewal in the deeper layers of the skin. " This is where skin purging comes in. The accelerated cell renewal processes lead to a faster shedding of dead skin cells ," continues Dr. Robinson. Everything that doesn't belong in the skin is flushed out by the stimulated self-cleansing power of the skin cells and, at the beginning of the transition, initially manifests itself in pimples and blemishes.

What is skin purging good for?

Skin purging is designed to expose fresh, new skin cells and reveal clear, purified, youthful skin. A radiant complexion from the inside out—completely natural and, above all, long-lasting.

"However, before these new, healthy cells can reach the surface, unwanted substances rise to the surface, such as excess sebum, debris from clogged pores, and dandruff. All of these are known causes of pimples, which are therefore more likely to be the initial exacerbation symptoms of skin purging," says Dr. Robinson. "Dry, flaky skin may also occur, but this varies from skin type to skin type."

In contrast to allergic reactions, with skin purging, the initial blemishes disappear quickly, and even tightness, flaking skin, and pimples are usually just symptoms of the effective clearing phase. The difference between the symptoms of skin purging and allergic rashes is explained below.

What causes skin purging?

Anything that triggers a peeling effect can accelerate the skin's cell renewal process and thus stimulate skin purging . Chemical peels include anything with an exfoliating effect, such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids (AHA and BHA), as well as mechanical peels. Retinol (vitamin A) and powerful phytochemicals such as bakuchiol from Psoralea corylifolia and the salicylic acids from willow bark are also considered possible triggers of skin purging:

• Microneedling
• Exfoliating ingredients such as AHA and BHA
• Retinol and retinoids
• Bakuchiol
• Willow bark extract
• Vitamin C
• Face brushing & mechanical peelings

Retinoids are often prescribed, especially for acne, and can initially worsen skin reactions before improving. Dermatologist Robinson's clear recommendation is to stick to the recommended dosage of the active ingredient cosmetic. "It may be very tempting to just stop," she says. "Stick with it. Things will get worse before they get better."

Skin purging or allergic reaction? The differences

What if it's not a detoxification, but an actual acne flare-up or a serious allergic reaction? How do you tell the difference between skin purging and an allergy?

Skin purging	Allergic reaction
In usual places	In new places where irritation does not normally occur
Disappears faster than a pimple	Takes about 8 to 10 days (appearance, ripening, regression)

Observing the location of the irritation can provide insight. Skin purging usually occurs in a specific area of ​​the face. This is usually an area that is already prone to irritation and redness. According to Dr. Robinson, if you tend to develop blisters around the mouth or irritation around the nostrils, for example, you'll likely experience more skin purging in those areas. However, the pimples that appear during skin purging don't last as long as "normal" pimples.

If irritation, skin rejection, allergic reactions, or extreme dryness occur in areas of the face where reactions don't normally occur, it's probably not skin purging but an acne flare-up. In this case, it's important to discontinue use of the product as soon as possible.

It's worth waiting for a 28-day skin renewal cycle to see if the skin's appearance improves after initial symptoms worsen. Every skin is different and unique, so the purging timeframe can vary from person to person. According to general advice among dermatologists, skin purging should be completed within four to six weeks , meaning after a good one skin renewal cycle. If the skin remains irritated and no improvement is seen after six weeks at the latest, it's important to consult a dermatologist to ensure that the active ingredients aren't harming the skin.

Can skin purging be avoided?

There's no shortcut to thorough cleansing, but skin purging can be made more pleasant. It's important to work with your treating dermatologist and stay in touch. The recommended product intake can be adjusted, and additional tips can be discussed. It's important to stress the skin as little as possible and support it with gentle treatments instead of aggressive skincare products.

Tips to alleviate skin purging

While the skin is undergoing skin purging, there are a number of self-help tips to gently support detoxification and ensure a maximally pleasant cleansing process.

• Gentle cleansing care for the skin.

The face should never come into contact with harsh chemical ingredients. The ideal solution is simply fresh drinking water. "Less is more" is the key to success here. For your subsequent daytime skincare routine, mild, antioxidant-rich natural cosmetics with organic ingredients and nourishing plant oils such as jojoba oil, argan oil, and borage oil are ideal. At night, during skin purging, it's especially important to support facial skin's regeneration: a probiotic face cream, such as one containing Bacillus subtilis, is ideal . This bacterium was recently named Microbe of the Year.

• Do not touch your face or squeeze pimples.

This leads to dark spots, redness, and more irritation. Permanent scarring can also occur.

• Avoid aggressive peels and chemicals.

Peelings, face brushing, and conventional skin products can be counterproductive when purging. They may unnecessarily prolong the cleansing process.

• No sunbathing.

Strong sun exposure can further irritate sensitive skin during skin purging. If you're planning a sun vacation, be sure to apply a natural facial cream with a sufficient sun protection factor—even better: wear a hat and shade.

• Anti-inflammatory foods & nutrients.

Everyone reacts differently to certain foods, including the development of acne. If you already know of foods that trigger flare-ups, you should definitely avoid them during skin purging. Instead, you should focus on fresh vegetables and fruits. Targeted supplementation with omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants can also help reduce inflammation.

Using natural facial masks is an easy way to make skin purging more pleasant and support a gentle cleansing process. For example, deep cleansing masks with botanicals and nourishing organic plant oils from jojoba and almond are suitable for all skin types . suitable and contribute to the rapid regeneration of stressed skin.

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• Drink a lot.

The most important thing is: hydration, hydration, hydration. Natural detox processes, such as skin purging, are best supported by drinking plenty of fluids. Stimulated by active molecules like bakuchiol, AHA, or retinol in natural cosmetics, the cells in the deeper layers of the skin begin to release toxins and detoxify. To ensure these are flushed to the surface as quickly as possible, drinking plenty of water, tea, and trusting in the process helps: it's worth it. Once the deeper layers of the skin are freed of toxins, nothing stands in the way of clear, purified skin with a natural radiance.

Skin Purging: The Essentials

Don't be afraid of initial aggravation when switching to natural or high-quality active ingredient cosmetics. There's no shortcut to clear skin, no quick fix for a healthy deep skin cleansing process. Skin purging can lead to irritation and redness. However, gentle companions like soothing masks with aloe vera and regenerative night creams can make skin purging more pleasant and keep breakouts at a low level. In addition, mild day creams without alcohol, but instead with plant-based antioxidants, can help protect against free radicals and the aggravation of irritation. Otherwise, the key to this important cleansing process is to trust in the skin's self-cleansing powers and drink plenty of fluids. The reward is a fresh, radiant complexion – lasting and from deep within. By then, your skin will be ready for spring.

Sources: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28018771/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2989803/ https://versedskin.com/blogs/learn/what-is-skin-purging